Eat Drink Style The Tar Pit, Los Angeles - Mark Peel Keeping It Real

In Los Angeles, the restaurant scene is indeed one that is competitive and dynamic. Aside from the chefs native to the city, there are a good number of chefs that will arrive from places like Chicago or New York to expand their cooking empire. Some make it, some don't. In the new school of chefs, names like Michael Voltaggio, Ludo Lefebvre and Jose Andrés seem to be catching the spotlight with their exquisite techniques and plating, and of course, the eventual Foam Party. Although the food they cook is amazing, I still have an affinity for chefs like Centeno, Becerra and the 2 Dudes Catering. They cook food that for me seems to be soulful and less about bells and whistles. They don't really follow the mainstream trends and you could taste it in their food. These guys are all definitely in the New School of Los Angeles chefs. With all the attention on the New School, it's definitely hard to regain attention especially if you're a veteran of the Los Angeles dining scene. But talent usually never goes unnoticed and it will always draw a crowd. When talking about Los Angeles, it would be a sin not to mention Chef Mark Peel of Campanile. If you have not eaten at Campanile, one look at the menu and you would know that he enjoys cooking traditional food that is comforting and delicious. A lot of the food is pan-roasted or grilled, like his Grilled Prime Rib. When's the last time you ate a prime rib at an haute cuisine?

Naturally, young people will always be bolder and wilder than their seniors, trying out different techniques. But for Mark Peel, I think he is moving at the pace of well, himself... by doing as he pleases. Instead of moving forward, Peel took a ride in the time machine to a New York supper club in the 1930s and 1940s. And he took along with him, a pillar in the New York cocktail scene named Audrey Saunders of the original Pegu Club. I had never heard of her before until hearing many of the 213 Downtown LA bartenders talk about her like she was a deity.

One of the first people Jeni and I met when we first started blogging about food was none other than Yoony of Immaeatchu, who is a solid and curious cook. Over the years, we had become catering associates and of course good friends, and tonight, she was turning one year older. Birthday troupe, cocktails by Saunders and food by Peel. Enter the NYC time machine known as the Tar Pit.

Walking in, you know that they've really nailed the NYC ambiance back then. You've seen it in old movies. Authentic or not, this was something "fresh" for us and definitely interesting. Right off the bat, I think we might have brought down the median age of the clientele. I saw more white hair and shiny heads than those with hair - an indication of loyal Peel followers and more mature demographic. The overall lighting is dim, with small candles all over the tables. There are curtains everywhere and if I remember correctly, the booths seats are high. It is quite comfortable here and easy to doze off if you've had too many Old-Fashioned's and Manhattan's.

As you can imagine, the name Tar Pit is a reference to the La Brea tar pits and there are quite a few paintings of dinosaur fossils. Or is the name a reference to dinosaurs like me eating in the restaurant?

In addition to the restaurant decor, the servers and bartenders have a nice look. The bartenders wear these black jackets that might confuse them for valet tenants and the waitresses with their 30s style outfits and tied-back hair.

First and foremost, we started out we Saunders' cocktail menu. With a stocked bar like that, you would be hard-pressed to find a cocktail they didn't know how to make.

And Saunders did not disappoint, the cocktails were SOLID. My favorites were the Little Italy and the Gin Gin Mule. It was easy to have 1, 3... 5 cocktails.

With a group of eight, this was a good opportunity to share and try a big chunk of Peel's throwback menu.

Calamari with Lemon Wheels, Shallot Rings and Rouille
Easily one of the best calamari dishes I've had. Great batter, great texture and great sauce. I've noticed that Peel has a good deep-frying touch in previous dining experiences.

Pickled Deviled Eggs with Shaved Smithfield Ham
I love eggs and this is probably how Deviled Eggs tasted back then. Not that scary, 50s suburban housewife version you see too often on TV.

Clams Casino with Herbs, Butter and Bacon
I loved these for the time and delicate hands required to make this dish. The herbs, butter and bacon went so well with the clams - not even overpowering it. I think we all could have done a few dozens of these. This wen well with the Little Italy cocktail.

Tuna Tartare with Mustard & Cucumbers
I've never eaten tartare with cucumbers and this wasn't bad. I think we're all too accustomed to having a crispy texture to go with the soft, flesh of tuna.

Lobster Bisque Scented with Cognac
Easily the best Lobster Bisque I've eaten. This was DELICIOUS. Chef Peel does not cheat you on the 'lobster' part as you tell by the taste and color of the soup from using a lot of lobster shells. I had to ask for more bread to sop-mop the bowl. I still think about this dish all the time, as it was my favorite at Tar Pit.

Duck Sliders with Orange Gastrique
I found this to be a little rich but this was a favorite amongst the diners. Buns were baked beautifully and the duck was moist though.

Macaroni & Cheese with Porcini Mushrooms & Three Cheeses
Classic dish after classic dish, the night didn't end without having Peel's simple and rustic version of M&C. I don't like most of the M&Cs I eat at restaurants because they are either (A) dry and overdone with bread crumbs, (B) confuse the palate with X, Y and Z cheeses and (C) way too rich. Here, the pasta is super al-dente and even slightly crisped up under the Salamander oven. This can be rich, so share this!

Chilled Veal "Vitello Tonnato" with Tuna Sauce
This was my first time having a classic Italian dish... chilled veal with tuna sauce. I loved how the egg yolks and cornichons were chopped and plated that way. The veal was cooked perfectly but I would probably like this more if it was hot.

I have to admit that after leaving Tar Pit I was indifferent about Peel's food. But the more and more I thought about the concept behind Tar Pit, I liked it a lot more. Sure the food is simple but that's what Peel seems to be known for. I'm always up for Chefs that don't follow trends. And the cocktails are surely enjoyable. I would go here more for the classic drinks, like the Little Italy, that are mixed purely with other types of alcohol. I love cocktails that don't use simple syrup such as the Negroni or Manhattan. I'll be back here for sure. Thanks for reading.

Eat Drink Style Palate, Glendale - Sunday Brunch with Cut Chemist & DJ Octavio Becerra

Last Sunday, we were invited by our wine connoisseur friend MM for a Sunday Brunch at Palate. He first told us about Palate back in July and since then, I think we've been there at least a dozen times. Besides Chef Octavio Becerra's usual assortment of fine California cuisine dishes and extensive list of wine, he started serving up delicious vinyl on Sundays. This time, with a super special guest dj... Cut Chemist of Jurassic 5 and Ozomatli. At exactly 12 pm, the wine started flowing. 1 minute earlier and we'd be in the alchi category.

How many Chefs out there know how to go back and forth between cooking and spinning?

Bottles and bottles later, the Chemist decides to show up around 4 pm, relieving both Chef and his sommelier, who was also in the rotation. They all spun soul/funk.

For Sunday Brunch, one dish is featured for $12 along with a small selection of appetizers and his mason jars, which he is known for. Last time I ate at Palate, I fell in love with his pork trotter dish... an interestingly shaped 'sausage' filled with ground pork feet and pork shoulder. I could eat TWO of them. I asked Chef he had any left in the kitchen, but offered up this instead. Moist and flavorful, what else can you ask for with a braised dish.

After speaking at a UCLA conference that same week, Chef Becerra invited Kogi BBQ's Roy Choi to come by and hang out. He along with Jonathan Gold and Anthony Bourdain were on the same panel. As Roy waited for his food, he perused Becerra's library for some literature.

Jeni ordered the Braised Oxtail which was simply awesome. Marinated in soy sauce and mirin. About 6 hours later, we found ourselves still drinking and munching on food. I love the idea of a Sunday Brunch, but it's super easy to lose your sense of time, as well as your mind. Sunday Suppers, every Sunday. Thanks for reading.

Jeni's posting on Sunday Brunch.

Eat Drink Style Poutine Porn - Hello from Montreal

Eat Drink Style A Taco Tour with Roy Choi of Kogi BBQ

About 8 months ago, Roy Choi was situated in a restaurant he had helped built in Santa Monica. He was at a standstill and pondering his next move in life, like a chess player. He had always had ambitions in opening a restaurant that would serve Korean-fusion food, but that would take years to achieve. It wasn't until one day when his old friend Mark Maguera called him with a proposition he couldn't refuse. One that would make him the executive chef, serving Korean-style tacos – a Korean homage to one of Los Angeles' favorite foods. At first it seemed like a daydream, but after a few days, Choi knew that Maguera was serious about this. On the day of his departure, Roy found himself leaving the doors of a restaurant and right into another one that had four wheels. They were offered a chance to test-drive their concept in a vending truck for two free months. With recipes tested, cooks hired and the financiers behind them with full support, Choi literally got behind the wheel of their taco truck, named Kogi BBQ, and hit the streets of Taco Town, Los Angeles. Shortly after the first day, they knew this would be a tough endeavor. For weeks they didn't sell one taco. They were heckled by locals and even threatened by gangs to leave the turf. But with patience, determination and a little bird that loved to tweet her song, a new type of business emerged, in the form of a Korean-run taco truck. And pretty soon, they found themselves overwhelmed by crowds of 800 in Rosemead and Torrance.

I received an email from Alice, Kogi's PR-superstar, saying that both she and Chef Roy really enjoyed the exhaustive taco stand and table posting from February. I thought it'd be fun to invite them on a tour and just talk food. After a few emails, we decided to meet up on the day Chef Roy would be speaking at UCLA with Jonathan Gold, Octavio Becerra of Palate and my favorite, Anthony Bourdain. I thought Roy and Alice could use a break from the aroma of soy sauce, sesame oil and chili paste and oh yeah, Jeni and I would get to try their tacos too. We also decided to invite rising-comedian Aziz Ansari of MTV's Human Giant and NBC's Parks & Recreation along on the journey. He apparently, is a big fan of Kogi BBQ (2nd photo), amongst many other celebrities. Here's my favorite Aziz Ansari skit.

We headed out to the Eagle Rock area off Eagle Rock Blvd. and York Blvd, where Kogi BBQ was stationed that night. I had driven a good 50+ times into this area because of my taco foraging and was quite familiar with my surroundings. I saw the usual Leo's and Rambo's taco trucks, with their spray-painted murals, and continued going north, not really knowing where Kogi BBQ lay their nest. I asked my friend Tyson, "Where is that truck?" He replied, "Oh, you'll know when you're at Kogi BBQ." And all of a sudden, without second guessing, we had arrived – a jarring 200+ people waiting in line on a Thursday night around a corner in Eagle Rock . We parked and started walking.

We had parked far enough, not being able to see the truck. All we could hear was the light chattering of people in line. We then cut behind a Starbucks towards the end of the taco line and within seconds, we smelled what could only be Korean BBQ. The sweet, smoky, charred aroma of meat being spanked by a hot metal grill. It was beauty. My brain was confused... was this a Mexican taco or was this a Korean BBQ restaurant – what was this mysterious harmony that has got people talking. I had trained my brain into searching for any vending truck or stand with clamp lamps, but the Kogi BBQ truck just didn't register. "Both," I said to myself.

We got to the end of the line and I simply could not believe the amount of people waiting around. The majority of the crowd was Asian, 22-26 years old, with the occasional sprinkle of Caucasian and Latino people – there was some diversity. Everyone was huddled around their own cohort, chatting away – doing anything to make time pass before it was time to eat. I could hear a girl saying that she couldn't wait to get a burrito. I called Aziz and told him, "this is ridiculous. I'm not waiting in this line." We're supposed to leave in 15 mins. But hey, six-pack and plastic cups to the rescue. Aziz called back and told us to meet him in front of the truck, and sure enough we found him there with his group.

Now we were in front of the truck and all I could smell was that deliciousness that is Kogi BBQ. I already knew it was going to taste really nice. You walk into Manna Korean BBQ, and you know it's not going to be good. You walk into Park's BBQ and you know you've come to the right place. I could see Roy hustling and bustling inside. There must've been like 5-6 people in the heart of the truck. One wrong move or sudden jerk, could mean someone really injuring themselves. I saw Aziz talking to Roy and I went to introduce myself. Firm handshake, a smile and a question, "Do you want some tacos?" Yes, please.

Within 3 minutes, he yelled at my name for the pickup. With both hands out, he passed on the little treasures – two, tiny tacos filled with steaming meat and shiny garnishing. I took a bite out of the kalbi (short rib) taco first and it was definitely good. The sweetness of the meat, light touch of sesame oil and the sour bite of the vinaigrette on a toasted corn tortilla somehow made sense. The pork version was also very good. I didn't think of this as a taco but more a delicious creation by Chef Roy, like Josef Ceteno's "Baco". The term "taco" is merely used to lure you to the truck, and from there, you're at a point of no return.

About 15 minutes later, with hands reeking of dried corn and Korean BBQ, we wrangled everyone and headed out. Previously, we had done a larger party taco hunt with 11-12 cars on my birthday and it worked out as smoothly as a funeral procession minus the motorcade police. This time, it was 3 cars and much easier to manage. Me in the front, with Roy and Aziz in the caboose.

La Estrella Taco Truck (York Blvd. & Avenue 54)
This is usually my first stop when entering Highland Park's Taco Town. Here, they are known for their juicy carnitas and al pastor. Of all the stands and trucks I've been to, I have to say they make a killer salsa roja (red sauce) that is smoky, rich, tomatoey and the perfect touch to tender pieces of meat. The tacos here are expensive, meaning $.25 more than the usual $1 you'll pay out here, but you get a LARGE, WELL-ENDOWED taco. Very food porny. There is a truck west of here called El Pique and no matter how many times I try to give them business, I find myself doing a U-turn back to La Estrella – which is one of ER/HP's favorite trucks. I recommend carnitas, al pastor, cabeza and lengua. They have two other trucks and one actual restaurant – choose your poison.

York Blvd. & Nolden St.

Exactly 4 blocks east of La Estrella is a bunch of nice guys from East LA that park at Serrano's Auto Repair. I know this place is authentic because I get stared at here and they freak out when I order in Spanish.

I lost my buche virginity here and never order anything else but the buche. So that's what I suggested to our group of 14, more than half were buche virgins. I almost shed a tear when everyone told me that this was very delicious. Besides the buche, I recommend the cabeza, lengua and on this night, the al pastor hit a home run. Tip on al pastor: this is a meat that should never be served dry – strictly illegal. It should look pasty and juicy. If it even looks charred, don't even bother. You can try asking for a fresh cut off the spit but the taquero could take offense. Try your tacos with the curtido (pickled vegetables) with habanero.

My friend Tyson and Aziz's cousin going in for a kill.

Aziz Ansari plugging his new NBC show, Parks and Recreation that airs on
Thursday, April 9th. Written by two writers from The Office. How was that Aziz?

Taco hopping is not just a meal, it's a sport. And in almost all sports, you need a half-time to relax, re-strategize and swap out a new, dry jock strap. That's why I always head to my favorite watering hole in Los Angeles for some fine, craft beer – The Verdugo. If you don't know what to order, you're going to get a Stella Artois. Also, if you've heard of the new Boho Restaurant, the guys from The Verdugo provide the delicious beer there. Two beers later, everyone was still hungry and we headed out.

The Verdugo bar guys also have a friend of theirs setting up shop right outside. To me, this is a blast to the past – to a time I used to be out till 3-4 am in a sloppy state. I am really not sure how I was able to put two of these into my stomach. It looks like three hot dogs in a gutter/sewer. Aye, say no to Danger Dogs.

We then drove to the taco stand by the Verdugo bar on Verdugo & Avenue 31. These guys moved up to my top three instantly with their friendly service and $.80 tacos. I knew they weren't open on Thursdays but had to try anyway. And sure enough, they were there, but already taking down their stand. Frown.

It was now almost 12 am and there one last taco stand effort, my favorite, Fletcher and Larga in Glassell Park. Nope, not there either. Taco Zone it is. But even Taco Zone tricked us! Instead of parking in front of Vons, they parked even further south by the Rite Aid. Messing with my stomach!

Taco Zone (Alvarado & Vons)

You can always count on this truck to be here, unless it's catering a big event, like at the LACMA or MOCA. This is almost like the white guy's version of Kogi BBQ, drawing crowds as big as 30 at a time. We had first heard of this place from Jeni's old neighbor and Tokyo Astro Girl's husband, who swore by Taco Zone. But when I got here, I found it to be merely average – a place for SL/EP hipsters to congregate and sober up. The thing about Taco Zone is that you have to go there early to get the tastier meats. When I've eaten here before 12 am, I get decent stuff and I'm content - especially the suadero (brisket). But after 12 am, I get the charred, nasty bits that, once upon a time, came from an animal. It seems the owner does not care to refresh her supply. She knows very well that the people are inebriated haha.

So what do I do at Taco Zone after 12 am? The answer is simple, ask for a mulita. For $.25 more ($1.50 total), you can Optimus Prime your taco with charred meat into one with cheese and extra tortilla. Almost like a mini, round quesadilla. And it is good. You know sometimes you just want a few bites of a quesadilla but don't want a tumor, this is the answer.

Hand modeling by Tyson. Anything you'd like modeled, he'll do for some freelance pay.
Tough times right now. I paid him with this delicious mulita.

Everyone loved these.

The BLTC Burrito
I love BLT's, but I love BLTC's more. Akin to Willy Wonka's candy that changes it tastes every few bites, this is the Mexican version. Four types of meat all in one burrito – buche, lengua, tripas and cabeza. But it is CRITICAL that you do not end on tripas, because well, you'll be left with an after dinner mint taste that will taste somewhat like @$$. I love tripas but you just can't end on that. Try not to order this when it's busy, or you'll get looks from the cooks. Like I did. So what, this was delicious.

After three trucks and one stand, it was time for Aziz Ansari and his entourage to leave. By the way, Aziz Ansari's show Parks and Recreation will be airing on NBC on Thursday, April 9th. I told him that we'd be glad if he joined any of our future food crawls. He's truly a good guy and no he didn't ask me to announce that his show Parks and Recreation will be airing on NBC on Thursday, April 9th.

Tacos Arizas (Sunset Blvd. & Logan)
It was now 1 am. And it was down to me, Jeni, Tyson, Chef and Alice. I could go home or I could go eat. This was a bit exhausting. But I had to ask, "One more stop?" Without hesitation, everyone answered "yes." So we ended up at Tacos Arizas of Echo Park. Only three years ago, Jeni and I sat apart from each other on crates with Jarritos and paper plates getting to know each other. Now we're sitting together.

But like the first few taco stands, we arrived at a truck that was on its way out. The workers were cleaning up and I asked if they would sell any more tacos. They looked at each other and hesitated. Right then, another 5 patrons came and the decision was unanimous. They dropped their cleaning supplies and started lighting up the griddle. Awesome. That's another $50 in their pocket, so why not. I have to say that I find myself coming back to this truck more often than not. Their tacos, burritos and quesadillas are simply done right. I like their chicken quesadillas.

In about 3.5 hours, I learned a lot about this 39-year old Korean man named Roy Choi. With something as successful as Kogi BBQ, major press on Newsweek, New York Times, LA Weekly and LA Times, celebrity sightings, its hard for a chef not to let this get to his head. Especially with a CIA culinary education, experience under Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin restaurant and 4-5-star chef ranking. Not once did I get that impression from him. Besides Octavio Becerra and Josef Centeno, I have never met more genuine, down-to-earth chefs with unmatched passion for food. Roy has seen rough times in his life but he told me that things seems to go well sooner than later with some hope and hard work. When he asked what he wanted to do next, he hinted on the idea of possibly running a taco stand.

As we were almost done with our food, one of the last few patrons started talking to us. He was drunk and enjoying his food, and must have heard us talking about all the tacos we tried tonight.

Guy: "Hey, have you guys heard of that Kogi Korean BBQ truck?"
Us: "Yeah. Have you tried it?"
Guy: "I haven't, but I heard it's good. Real good."

I expected Alice or Chef to reveal themselves, but being humble people, they didn't. Jeni, Tyson, Chef, Alice and I just looked at each other and smiled. Thanks for reading.

Here's Jeni's posting on this gluttonous evening.

Eat Drink Style Introducing Mona Greasa... Arby's New Non-Greasy Work of Art

A great advertising spot done by Arby's, advertising their new 'Roast Burgers'.  I still wouldn't try it.  Remember that great line from an episode of The Simpsons? 

"I'm so hungry I could eat at Arby's." - Sherry or Terry

Check out www.burgergreaseart.com

Eat Drink Style Spice Station, Los Angeles - The Silver Lake Spice Trade

After watching Food Inc., Jeni and I thought a lot about eating better and following a more sustainable lifestyle. Well, the best that we can. For those that live in Los Angeles, particularly ones that enjoy cooking as much as we do, now is a VERY exciting time. We started utilizing our resources in Los Angeles first by shopping at farmer's markets, particularly the Hollywood Farmer's Market on Sundays. There, you can find pretty much everything you're looking for. From fresh oysters from Carlsbad, to English shelling peas and the tasty California chanterelle mushrooms. It's not a surprise that you would see Los Angeles chefs there. We would buy all of our vegetables there and then make a trip to McCall's Meat & Fish Company in Los Feliz to pick up our proteins. At McCall's, with the careful eyes and hands of two passionate chefs, you have access to free-range, non-hormoned meats and fish. And finally, there's the Silver Lake Cheese Store, for those that want to do some nibbling before the meal even happens. Chorizo from Spain, artisanal cheeses from allover Europe and a nice selection of wine and oils. But while charcuteries, fresh vegetables, meat, fish and poultry are great, where would you be without your proper spices? This is where an Armenian-Canadian by the name of Peter B. from Montreal, enters the Los Angeles culinary scene and completes the home cook's trinity. Hello, Spice Station.

We're all guilty of it. We have spices that probably date back 5+ years. I bet you have that Schilling's black pepper in the red and white tin. That Montreal steak seasoning that has become one block of dried out bits. Or how about the Morton's chemical-tasting salt box with the umbrella-wielding girl. I know I do. Yet I continue to use my spices on my food as though it's flavor is eternal. And when I visited the Spice Station, I knew it was time to leave all that baggage behind. I'm talking 30-40 plastic containers of spices.

The Spice Station is located down a quaint walkway in the Sunset Junction. When you first walk through, you get a sneak peak at Peter B's featured spices on a large chalkboard. The location is so perfect as it feels like a cozy house with fountain and patio furniture. And it's actually a good break away from the skinny hipsters that lurk on Sunset Blvd.

If you're into spices, then this would be considered nirvana. The Spice Stations is seriously spicy. In keeping with the theme, he can take it to the next level and have the Spice Channel running and play Spice Girls but that wouldn't be very good for business would it? And it's clear that what Peter B. began as a hobby, is an impressive exhibition of passion. There are jars everywhere with recognizable and mostly unrecognizable spices. If you think about it, the collection he has here is the result of centuries of trade and war. Back then, being a spice purveyor meant access into virtually any country within Asia, Europe and Africa. Spice was currency; currency meant power. It's hard to believe that a small aromatic spice controlled the way civilizations were run and the amount of blood bled into the soil. Thanks to Peter B., the modern day spice man, you're going to have all your limbs and pay for spices at reasonable prices.

It was fun watching Peter B. I stood there with my camera and just watched him buzz around like a bee pollinating flowers. He'd grab jars here and there and restock them as needed. I would ask him questions about certain spices and he'd have answers for me immediately. Without even really looking at me haha.

In addition to hundreds of spices, Peter B. offers 28+ salts. If anything, this is most important ingredient in the world. NOTHING will taste good without salt, even that iodized table crap salt. I went ahead and tried all of them. He's got sea salts, flaky salts, pink salt and even the ghost pepper salt. Peter B. warned me not to eat more than TWO GRAINS, and man, that was enough to get the point. I plan to buy all of the salts and start a Facebook group on salts. I know you want in on this.

It's only fitting that the Spice Station would offer sets. These make great gifts for the home cook and are packaged nicely. I recommended Peter B. sell spice packets for things like Chinese Beef Noodle Soup (niu rou mian) and Vietnamese Beef Noodle soup (pho) since a lot of locals are heavily into Asian-style noodles. Being Armenian, he offers a nice shawerma/kebab rub.

Like I said before, I think right now is an exciting time for those that enjoy cooking. And even for those that have yet to touch a frying pan. Peter B. is not only knowledgeable about hundreds of spices but he is a cook himself and can help you make that boring grilled chicken breast into something sexier and remotely edible. Spices are charged by the ounce and it's a 1 oz. minimum. It is actually better to buy in small batches and get into the habit of labeling the date purchased. Thanks for reading.

Spice Station
3819 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
(323) 660-2565
www.spicestationsilverlake.com